Friday, June 14, 2013

A very quick tutorial on wine making....I still feel like a novice, so here goes.

Things that will come in handy:

Pectin Enzyme
Jam, concentrate, or fruit.
sugar
water
acid blend
yeast nutrient
yeast energizer
wine yeast

A sanitized food grade bucket
spoon
liquid measure cup
hydometer testing tower
hydrometer
a low temperature thermometer
a cup
an acid test
a kitchen towel

Later on after initial fermentation:
A sanitized airtight container such as a glass carboy
a bung
an airlock


First decide what you're using, are you using fruit, jam, concentrate? This tutorial shows jam and concentrate. If using concentrate you can use 3 cans per gallon of wine EXCEPT with raspberry. It has far too much acid and only 2 cans are used per gallon of wine. Just know that the more concentrate you add the more body your wine will have. Myself I don't want to feel too full after just 2 glasses so I tend to make mine  on the light side. 

Onward.....this one is a blueberry jam wine. I nuked my homade jam (WITHOUT THE LIDS ON) for just a min to loosen up the jam in their jars. I also added 1/2 bottle Simply Blueberry 100% juice, 2 cans white grape concentrate, 1 can apple concentrate, and 1 can of blueberry pomegranite concentrate for body. Just because that is what I had around here.


Put your fruit/jam/concentrate into your food grade bucket. You can buy these for usually $1 at most grocery stores. Go to the bakery department and ask them if they have any buckets for recycling. Sometimes they'll just give them to you.....sometimes.


 At this point you will add your water up to how many gallons you want, this one I went 2 gallons as I had 6#'s of jam, 3#'s per gallon of wine. I have the side of my buckets marked out to every gallon to make it easier.

What you're going to do now is add your pectin enzyme and let it sit at least overnight. What this does is help the juice/fruit/w.e release more of its sugar to give you a better starting gravity reading. Be patient its worth it. One time I did two elderberry wines and didn't use PE on one and the reading was off more then I thought it would be.
After adding your PE, tie a kitchen towel around your bucket.
I take a plethora of rubber bands and link them together to make a long, elastic, 'tie'.
 Now we're going to check how much sugar is in this bucket already so we know how much more to add. Don't want to add too much sugar because you will end up with rocket fuel, that even after years of aging will still tastse like rocket fuel because the alcohol is too high. Ask me how I know...lol

Take some of your concentrate/jam juice (called "must") out into a regular cup and take its temperature, write it down. Yes its important.


Now some articles will tell you your must has to be around 60 degrees to test it, while other articles state the newer hydrometers are calibrated to read at 68 degrees now. Regardless of the temperature (which you have already taken and written down...right?) you can use an online hydrometer temperature calculator. So if your must is at  say 75 degrees, you would pluck in 75 degrees, what your Starting Gravity is and it will tell you the real number you're starting at since your must is warmer then 68 degrees

Take the must from your cup and pour into your hydrometer testing tower. A hydometer tower cost about $3-5, its nice to buy one with a removable bottom for cleaning. 

Fill up to 3/4 of the way with must and take your glass hydometer (again $3-5, totally worth it) and spin it inside the tower to release any bubbles that could potentially hold it up higher then it truely is. 

Read the number below 1.000 side of the hydrometer. What you're aiming for is 1.080-1.090. It has to be this high to preserve the fruit in your wine. This is your Specific Gravity. It not only tells you how much sugar is in your wine, but also how much potential alcohol will be in it when you're done.


Now, figuring out your sugar is fun. I go to Jack Kellers using your hydrometer and figure my sugar from his graph. The graph is set in 1 gallon increments, so you will have to adjust if you're making more then 1 gallon. 

Now remember, I had you add water up to how many gallons you want to make. So looking at the graph you should use "sugar to a gallon" NOT "sugar in a gallon." 

So if you're must is at 1.060 Jack is saying you currently have (1# 6.5oz) 22.5 ounces of sugar. But you want to get to 1.090, you would have to add 14.1oz of sugar per gallon to raise it up to 1.090. 

Remember I'm making 2 gallons, so I would multiply that by 2.

Repeat testing your must until the sugar is where it needs to be.



 After we finally get our sugar where we want it, (be patient, it can take a minute) we're going to check its acid. 

Acid is hard for me to explain, but its the amount dryness you feel and taste after you've swallowed a sip of wine. If there's not enough acid it will make your wine taste flat with no pizzazz. Personally I don't like too much acid, though. 
Its worth it to buy and acid test kit ($6-10). 

Draw up how ever much must the kit tells you to. My kit is a .2% lye concentration, so mine tells me 15cc. It seems the newer test kits are .1% lye concentrate and they tell you a different amount.

Place your must into a clear container, they ususally come with a little plastic medicine type cup. But since this must is darker I wanted to put it into something larger. 

Now for the testing solution, its made with water and lye.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN USING LYE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LYE WILL BURN YOU AND BLIND YOU!!!!!
WHERE GLOVES AND GOGGLES 
YES I'M SERIOUS, NEVERMIND THAT I DIDN'T IN MY PICS 
I've been working with lye for years.

If you do happen to splash yourself head right to the sink (or shower) and start rinsing with water and vinegar. Vinegar neutralizes lye.

Unless you've gotten it into your eyes, then call 911. Yes seriously.

Now that I have that out of the way...


 My kit tells me to suck up 10cc of lye solution. I slowly release this lye solution 1cc at a time into my previously measured must. Stir throughly after each release of lye solution. After just a little bit you will see your must start to change color, this is good.

You will only add lye solution until you see your must is no longer getting darker/changing color. 
Pay attention to how much lye solution you've used. This tells you how much acid is in your must currently.
The box the kit comes in will tell you what your acid should be at for any given wine.
It also tells you how to make your acid higher if need be.

Example, if you have 10cc in your syringe, and you used 4cc, then you're must is at .4%. Depending on the type of wine you're making, you'll have to adjust your acid to your wine. Like this blueberry I took to .6% so I had to add 1 1/2 teaspoons acid blend ($1.50 per bottle).

DO NOT ADD THIS TESTED MUST BACK INTO YOUR FERMENTATION BUCKET, 
IT HAS LYE IN IT!!!!!!!!!!!!


Okay great, we have our sugar where we want it and the acid too. Time to add the yeast energizer ($1.50), yeast nutrient ($1.50), and yeast ($2). You don't have to buy the yeast food, I just like to. Its not like they're expensive and they give your yeast that little extra boost. Now you can use wine yeast ($2) or Fleishmans bread yeast in the baking isle (.68 cents). 


The only thing I have to say about bread yeast (Fleishmans only) is many people scoff at it. I say when you're starting out who cares. BUT the biggest difference you will see is how much of a pain in the ass it is too rack off (take the wine off the crap sitting on the bottom). Using bread yeast is very, very fluffy, light, and if you move your container you'll see how much it moves. Wine yeast is much more compact and thin at the bottom.

Hopefully you've written down everything you've done. Specific gravity should be around 1.090.
Your acid is where you want it, sugar is where you want it, now to stir in your yeast nutrient, yeast energizer. 

Some articles will tell you to start your yeast in a seperate container. But I've just sprinkled it on top of my must for years and so far (knock knock) it's worked out. 

Sprinkle your yeast on top of your must, DON'T STIR! 

Place a clean kitchen towel over the top and tie it so no ants or fruit flies can get into it. 1 fruit fly will ruin your whole batch. I make a chain with rubber bands and use this to 'tie' down the towel.

After the first day, you'll see your wine starting to look frothy and you can hear it, you can start stirring it a few times a day until fermentation is done.

Fermentation takes anywhere from 2-10 days. During the fermentation stage its important to keep the temperature at a steady 70-75 degrees. You'll notice when your wine isn't so frothy and bubbly its time to check your ENDING SPECIFIC GRAVITY

You're ending specific gravity should be below 1.000 mark, which is higher up on your hydrometer. 
Time to put your wine into an airtight container with an airlock. 


Now had I used a nylon stocking I wouldn't have to strain off the fruit from my jam. But it was late at night, I didn't want to go to the store...ya know how it is. Be smart, buy a cheap $1 nylon, is totally worth it...otherwise you'll have to go through all this. 


Helping it get through the strainer.....


And yet another strainer.......


Then, finally into its glass 1 gallon carboy. They sell these in bigger sizes. 




Buy a bung and an airlock, I use vodka colored with food coloring in my airlock but you can use distilled water. Regular water will mold pretty quickly, unless you're changing the water everyday...but who has time for that?

Now that its in its carboy all happy, its important to remember to let it do this part at 60-65 degrees for several weeks until the airlock stops bubbling.


I'll add more as I have time, check back...I keep fixing/updating lol

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